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Cities & Travel
City portraits and practical notes for visitors, from the Citadel of Erbil and the old city of Mosul to Basra and the reed islands of the marshes. Always check official travel advice before you go.
Erbil Citadel: A City on a Hill of Its Own History
The Citadel of Erbil sits on an artificial mound built up by thousands of years of settlement. A guide to its history, restoration and the bazaar below.
The Mesopotamian Marshes and Basra
Where the Tigris and Euphrates meet, the marshes of southern Iraq are a world of reed islands, water buffalo and arched guesthouses. They are also fragile.
Mosul's Old City and the Return of al-Hadba
Mosul's old city on the Tigris lost many of its landmarks during the fighting of 2017. The reconstruction of the al-Nuri Mosque and its leaning minaret has become a symbol of recovery.
Planning a Trip to Iraq and the Kurdistan Region
Interest in travel to Iraq has grown in recent years. These practical notes cover seasons, entry rules, money, dress and etiquette, with one firm rule: check official advice first.