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Culture & Food

Food, music, books and the customs of everyday life: the things that make Iraqi culture distinctive, from masgouf by the Tigris to the classical maqam.

Masgouf, Dolma and Kleicha: A Guide to Iraqi Food

Iraqi cooking is generous, slow and built for sharing. From river fish grilled beside the Tigris to date-filled pastries at Eid, these are the dishes to know.

The Iraqi Maqam: Baghdad's Classical Music Tradition

The Iraqi maqam is a sophisticated vocal tradition recognised by UNESCO. Here is how it works, which instruments carry it, and how to start listening.

Al-Mutanabbi Street: Baghdad's Street of Books

Every Friday, booksellers, poets and readers fill a narrow street near the Tigris in old Baghdad. Al-Mutanabbi Street is the heart of the city's reading life.